Frequently Asked Questions

Q: My RV doesn't have a heated basement with enclosed and heated holding tanks.  What do I need to do to use it in cold weather? Is this something that is feasible or should I be looking to trade on a better-equipped model?
A: You can use your RV in cold weather. Even in temperatures consistently below 32 degrees Fahrenheit. Some extra effort will be required to protect vulnerable systems from freezing.

Q: I have a 1998 Class C motorhome on a Ford Chassis.  When I drive the steering seems to wander and jump around, especially on rural roads. Do I need the alignment adjusted? I just had it done less than a year ago.  I don't remember hitting any potholes or anything.  What could be causing my problem?
A: Unfortunately this is a common problem for Ford chassis motorhomes. The problem is often referred to as "bump-steer." The good news is that there are solutions to the problem. Shocks, sway bars, and steering stabilizers have made dramatic improvements to the handling. We have several RVs equipped with a "safety and handling package" designed to nearly eliminate the problem. Come in for a test drive and see for yourself.

Q: I have a 1999 Coachmen. Is it true that I don't need to use RV antifreeze in my water system? Is it sufficient to drain my water system and blow out the lines with air? A camping friend told me that all the new RVs have freeze-proof plumbing so I don't need to winterize, just blow it out. He says he hasn't used RV antifreeze for several years.
A: This is not true. While your friend may have been lucky enough to avoid problems so far, likely his luck is due to run out. Much of the RV's plumbing system is freeze resistant; however, it is far from freeze proof. The only way to avoid costly freeze-up damage is to use RV antifreeze every year. For more information, attend one of Dewalt's RV's free RV winterizing seminars held each fall.

Q: My motorhome is very sluggish to drive, especially in the mountains. I can barely keep it above 35 mph on any kind of grade, and forget about keeping the cruise engaged! It is a 1996 model with a 454 c.i.d. Chevy big block V-8. I think it should have plenty of power. Is something wrong?
A: Has the problem always existed or has it just become apparent? If it's a new problem, begin by checking for overloading. Check the weight of your motorhome and compare it to the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) listed on the data plate. Be sure to weigh the RV loaded the way you use it. If you determine that an overload situation exists, try to reduce the amount of stuff you carry. Next, check for any loose vacuum lines, the condition of the exhaust system, the cataylitic converter and the air filter. Any obstruction or inadvertent disconnect will rob performance.

Q: I have an Onan Genset on my 1988 Winnebago. It will start and run as long as I hold the start button, but as soon as I let go it shuts down. Any ideas?
A: Without knowing what model or specs of the genset, there are a number of possibilities.
1) Excess oil or low fluid levels - check and be sure that all fluids are at the recommended level as per your manual.
2) Possible overheating - check for blocked air flow or other possible causes of overheating.
3) Ignition relay contacts not opening - check continuity and correct.
4) Output voltage from genset is not being supplied to control due to an open circuit between generator and control or no output voltage from the genset. Refer to service procedures in your Onan manual for test.
5) Defective control PC board. Refer to manual for test procedure.
Best thing to do, because of the number of possibilities, is to see a trained Onan service technician for repairs. This will likely save you time and frustration.

Q: I bought my RV used and found in the paperwork that it was originally purchased new in June of 1997. It is supposed to be a 1998 model. How can this be?
A: Manufacturers have significant leeway regarding when they begin to offer new models. New year product introductions are common well ahead of the actual calendar year. To determine the actual year the manufacturer designated to your RV, refer to the tenth digit in the vehicles VIN (vehicle Identification Number). This number can be found on the RV builder's data plate on the left front exterior of towable RVs and the left side of the driver's area in motorized RVs. A 1998 model should have a W in the tenth position. A 1997 would have a V. Motorized RVs have both a chassis VIN and an RV or coach VIN. Most states title by the RV's VIN, not the chassis. For a chart on the VIN number codes for these and other years, check out Part 21 of Learn About RVs (Determining Year) on this webiste, under the section "Around the Campfire."

Q: How does the equalizing hitch work? Does tightening the bars one link help or hurt?
A: An equalizing hitch (also known as a weight distributing hitch) works by distributing the hitch weight onto the other axles of the tow vehicle and the trailer. Think of the weight distribution bars as the handles on a wheelbarrow. Lifting up distributes more weight and raises the hitch. Lowering increases the weight and lowers the hitch. Changing links is how adjustments are made to the towing level of the rig. The ideal is to have the tow vehicle and the trailer sitting level when hitched.

Q: My wife and I are starting to shop for a used Class A. After reviewing your very informative booklet [RV Buyer's Guide] (picked up at the Harrisburg Camper Show last fall) and information obtained from the RV Rating Book and Good Sam, some of the basic things we are looking for in a used Class A are: Year - 1996 or newer, Length - 28' to 34', Power - Ford, Fuel - gas, Non-smoking.
Additionally we are looking for a unit with a high safety and value rating. We have attached a document containing units we selected from the RV Rating Book that appear to meet our criteria. The Sea Breeze units, for example, would appear to be one of the better selections. Also included in the attachment is our check-off listing of features/options a unit may include. We would be interested in your comments to our selection approach. Thank you.
A: I applaud your focus on finding the right RV. However, I do have a few problems with your approach.
I wish there was an accurate and detailed RV rating book in existence, but this is nearly impossible given the varied configurations possible (due to the number of options available) in even a single model. These variations can affect weight dramatically and thereby weight distribution, payload and driving comfort and handling.

J.D. Gallant's ambitious attempt (The RV Rating Book) is admirable but, in my opinion, very flawed. I doubt that the RV Consumers Group has physically tested each and every one of the models rated. Be very careful about putting too much stock in the rating book alone. Trust but verify. Ask for the scientific and engineering principals behind the tests. Past data was, at times, based on "we just know" criteria. I suspect that much of the numerical data are the results of calculations based on information gleaned from product brochures and appraisal guides alone. Very few are the results of actual scientific testing procedures.

There is no substitute for doing specific homework on the product you are considering. This becomes a bit more difficult for used RVs as each is "one of a kind." No other will share its exact condition, history, or care. You need to decide what is important to you and how you feel about it - regardless of the numbers.
Use the NADA Guide to help with pricing and values, as well as depreciation. We sell the Guide, and it is also available on-line. NADA is the resource most dealers use to determine values. Use it to be sure you don't pay too much and that you are getting a fair trade value, if applicable.

Here is a partial list of things to do:
1) Do a very detailed visual inspection, looking especially for signs of damage, discoloration, soft spots, or other water damage.
2) Use your nose. If the RV smells musty or mildewy, there is water damage! You may not see it, but it's there.
3) Drive it! The key question is: do YOU feel comfortable with the way the RV drives and handles? Drive as many as you can to get a feel for how most motorhomes drive. How does this one compare? Perhaps assign your own rating of 1-10 for comparison.
4) Check maintainence records (if available). Pull the dipsticks and check fluids. Are they clean? Does the rig look well-maintained?
5) Weigh it. Preferably wheel-by-wheel to know how much payload is available and where. If you can, attend a seminar by A'Weigh We Go. See Dewalt's website for our own RV weight seminars. Know how much payload you have!
6) Verify that the tire size and load range on all used RVs matches the sizes specified on the manufacturer's data plate. Used RVs often have had tires replaced by less expensive, lesser rated tires.
7) Choose only a product still being built by an established and reputable manufacturer; preferably one with national presence, unless you intend to be limited to a specific region. Find out about the company's standards for sontruction and safety. For example, do the seatbelts meet the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's standards? No law says they must; RVs are exempt.
8) Put as much effort into choosing a dealer or finding a good home-base service center as you do into a product. You will need service. It will be best to develop a relationship with a service center you can trust to take care of you. Service support is the biggest challenge facing the RV industry. Few people give it a thought until they have a problem and are without access to competent support. This lack of focus helps keep the "sell 'em and forget 'em" people in business. There is already a huge shortage of capacity to handle the problem, which leads to backlogs. If you don't have a relationship with a good service center, you could be bouncing around at the end of a long waiting list.
9) Trust your own instincts. If you ask questions from our interview sheets in our RV Buyer's Guide you'll do fine. After all, whose RV is this going to be? Whose is the only opinion that counts? YOURS!
10) Have fun! Your efforts will be well worth it in the end. There are no perfect RVs; you will need service. But RVing is a great addition to your life!

Are you only interested in used? In my opinion, the only valid reason for buying used is budget. My experience is that used RVs are a much bigger gamble, even when they look good. Buy a used RV from a reputable dealer offering a written warranty (NOT a third party service contract) if possible.
Used RVs are in short supply, especially good, clean, well-maintained ones; another reason to go new if your budget allows. Depreciation is not much different if you keep it four or five years.

Have a questions we didn't address here? Contact us and we'll be happy to reply.